Your plants are looking to you to provide them with the basic care that is key to their survival. Your plants are vulnerable while they are getting established.
Our plantings are under warranty* for one year from the date of installation provided they receive reasonable care. You are responsible to ensure that the plant receives proper care and watering. The following care instructions will help you to protect your investment and maintain validity of your warranty.
Water is the most important element in the survival and establishment of new plantings. Too much water is just as bad as too little water! Water deeply and thoroughly, but not so often that the soil is soggy. Soil should be kept evenly moist. In many cases, one or two good waterings per week will be enough. Water at the root zone rather than sprinkling the whole plant (soaker hoses and watering wands work well). It is most efficient, conserves water, and helps to prevent leaf-spot type fungus diseased from infecting your plant. There are many different soil types, and all behave differently. The best way to determine when and how long to water is to feel the soil; it should feel moist an inch below the surface, and a handful should crumble when squeezed. If it clumps together or water squeezes out between your fingers, it is too wet.
· Water, applying at the root zone to provide a total of 1-2” of water per week including rainfall
· Check the soil for moisture after rains. You may be surprised that it didn’t rain enough
· You can water at any time of day that works for your schedule (but highest evaporation is mid-day)
· Water at the base and let it trickle to give it a slow watering that can soak into the root zone
· The frequency should be approximately once or twice a week, depending upon heat and how much rain we receive. Feel the soil; it should feel moist an inch below the surface, and a handful should crumble when squeezed. If it clumps together or water squeezes out between your fingers, it is too wet. Be careful not to over water in poorly drained soils.
· Consistent moisture is key – both under watering or over watering can be detrimental
· Continue to water all throughout the season as it gets established
· It is important to keep watering throughout the fall until the ground is frozen. (Plants going into winter without adequate moisture are at risk.)
· For following seasons, monitor as you would any of your plants through any extreme hot spells and or drought periods, as those times can cause stress
Fertilizer is not necessary at the time of planting because we are adding any necessary compost and amendments with installation. Root growth and establishment are key in the long term survival of your plants, and over fertilizing will push top growth at the expense of the roots. A follow up fertilization with a good quality slow-release granular product should be scheduled for the following fall or spring and then annually for up to 5 years. Once your planting is established, fertilizing is not necessary and can be harmful. Call us if you have any questions or would like us to provide a quotation.
Weathershield treatments to prepare for winter may be advisable if your new planting includes broadleaf evergreens like hollies or rhododendrons, or even needled evergreens. Winter damage due to cold, desiccating winds can severely damage vulnerable plants. A weathershield spray is applied in fall (and early spring if necessary) and provides a waxy coating to help prevent moisture loss. Call us if you want more information or a quotation.
Some things to expect:
Transplant shock – is a term that refers to a number of stresses occurring in recently transplanted trees and shrubs. Plants suffering from water stress may be more susceptible to injury from other causes such as the weather, insects, or disease. When several stresses are being experienced, the plant may no longer be able to function properly. Keeping up on proper watering is the best defense.
Leaf scorch – is a common symptom of transplant shock. Leaf scorch first appears as a yellowing or bronzing of tissue between the veins or along the margins of leaves of deciduous plants (those that lose their leaves in winter). Later, the discolored tissue dries out and turns brown. Other symptoms of transplant shock appear as wilting leaves (especially on recent transplants), yellowing, and leaf rolling or curling. On needled evergreens, the first symptom of water stress is an overall grey-green coloration to the foliage; with further water stress, the ends of the needles often turn a light tan color. If stress is not alleviated, leaf death occurs and may be followed by twig and limb dieback.
Early Fall Color or leaf drop – your plants may have early fall color as a result of being newly planted and getting established.
Perennial foliage dies back in fall – depending on how late in the fall your plants are installed, perennials may not have any crown or top growth – or it may yellow and die back quickly. This is natural for perennials and the root systems should be fine.
Now that Broccolo has professionally planted, you can expect it to take 3 years for a plant to fully establish. When taken care of properly; the 1st year it sleeps, 2nd year it creeps and the 3rd year it leaps; or if not taken care of then expect the 1st year it lies, the 2nd year it cries and the 3rd year it dies.
If you see a problem developing, please call our office @ 424-4476.